View Full Version : Went to Byron on Sunday and had a few issues

11-08-2011, 04:59 PM
First off I couldn't hook to save my life. I was coming out on 8PSI and she just smoked the tires everytime. Track seems too cold for my liking. They tried like hell to add more VHT but it didn't seem to matter for me. Also I was having traction issues on my last run and it actually got the car loose on me. I was sliding a bit towards the wall but I was able to settle it down by getting out of it and also I had the chute there to reel me in and straighten the car out.

On my way back to the pits I smelled coolant. Yes I already have coolant in it and sure enough when I popped the hood I saw my upper radiator hose spilling coolant from a hole in it. I could tell that it's right at the same spot where I don't have any shielding on the turbo and the hose.

So my questions is do they make a shielded radiator hose that can whithstand high heat? I'll try to sheild the turbo housing better but at the end of the day I want a belt and suspenders to protect me.

11-08-2011, 07:19 PM
yes they make bigger diameter heat shielding, usually for wiring but I believe if you bought the velcro kind, made by a company with three letters, I want to say DTP or something, but that could be way off, you could velcro two of them to each other instead of just a 3/4" size, it would be big enough for the radiator hose.

Also, you still running on the drag radials or your several year old slicks? I think in the spring right before you race you need to have a fresh set ordered from M/T supplier and you'll be amazed at the difference compared to old ones. End of season sell off the used ones, regardless of tread remaining for the slower cars. If they have half life or so, you can get 125-150 for the pair in the fall.

11-08-2011, 10:32 PM
I was on slicks that are 2 years old. They're done. Going to order new ones like you suggest. No worries. Coming out with new power next year. Unless of course my company fails, lays me off or is too stressfull for me to deal with.

I might have to use a ramp function on the boost controller. Car is coming up on the slicks wheels up then giving up the ghost. Goal next year is 8's coming off idle. LOL....

11-08-2011, 11:00 PM
Well have you datalogged the run, to see if it's a converter issue on coming up on the boost then falling on its face, or is it a suspension issue. I don't recall if you're running double adjustable shocks or not but those will help in the rear for adjustability if it's suspension control issues.

11-08-2011, 11:57 PM
Well thanks for the heads up, a simple, hey im going to Byron, want to watch? would have been great. but nooooooooo.

Like said, new tires, but wait til right before race season til as late as you can. get the freshest set you can. Are the ones you have now bead locked? are you spinning what you have now on the rim?

Are you boost by gear or boost on or boost off right now?

Sounds like its just all in the practice... seat time, seat time, seat time.

11-09-2011, 02:31 PM
LOL...I knew I wasn't going to run a number that day anyway. More of a seat time launch practice session. I had a 25MPH head wind the whole time and the track was pretty damned cold.
Steve, my last run I spun 3 times down the track. Everytime I hit around 24PSI it spun. I don't have double adjustables. Only single.

11-09-2011, 05:58 PM
I'd start with the new slicks and a prepped track in warmer temps before tossing money at it, but double adjustables may help you, I'd have to see how its reacting down track first.

Pro Stock John
11-09-2011, 09:11 PM
+3, expecting too much from old tires.

I'd get the car to where it comes out on a low 1.4, and then ramp in the boost gradually. Every hit bring it the stages sooner. You'll probably run an 8.xx as you sit with just 4-5 back to back good passes.

Double adjustable shocks are nice but I don't think you really need them right now.

I'd also look running a bead around the metal barb that the radiator hose slides onto, I know a few folks who have pushed that hose off on a past and the spun and... sometimes tagged the wall. That's what happened to Ray at the LSX Shootout in Indy.

11-22-2011, 06:43 PM
Replace the stupid rubber hose with a metal one but for the ends.
And or Put some header wrap on booth parts it will work.

11-22-2011, 08:08 PM
I'm having a metal one made this winter. I'll wrap it completely this time including the ends. I'll make sure the ends are rolled or beads put on them. I only had .5 inch of hot side turbo exposed (oil feed line flange) but I'll wrap it over the Winter.
New tires for next season for sure. I went ahead and added more HP (went from 907 to 967) but I'll use a ramp function on my boost controller to see what she'll hold. Maybe record 3 or 4 setups depending on track temps and conditions.

It's been 3 seasons on the TH400 and the torque converter. How often should I have the transmission gone through? I'm thinking it's about time. I'm tightening up the converter this Winter so I may just have the tranny sent out for inspection and freshening.

11-23-2011, 12:37 AM
well you do change the fluid every 30 passes right? :juggle:

If it held up for 3 years at that power level then I'd have it rebuilt, you're paying labor to go in there regardless might as well have the clutches and any hard parts with wear looked at. Who did you have build it the first time?

11-23-2011, 12:42 AM
Have to take in account alot of dyno time too. not as hard but still. If your gonna have it out, it be wise to have it gone thru.

11-23-2011, 02:03 AM

I used the thermotec black stuff...
Make sure to wet it before wraping with that type.
It really doesnt work well if you dont and make sure to pull
it tight and overlap it dont do the end to end thing.
When drys it will harden then use the Dei header spray sealer.
Then use DEI Titanium wrap over that with a overlap.

I can put my bare finger on my headers when running for
3 sec before it get really got. 1 sec if been running hard
and my wireloom no longer melts away now.

I assume you already use blanket on the turbo.

As you can see if you wrap it right you dont need the wire till the bottom.

11-23-2011, 07:27 AM
Fluid is changed before the start of any season. Probably around 30 trams brake passes I would guess. The last time it went in I believe it was FLT that it got sent to. Prior to that is a guy who's no longer in business.

I use turbo blankets for sure. Haven't seen the black stuff though. Mine is burlap looking on the wrap and I use a silver coated material that reflect heat on sensitive areas but there was a small section of rubber hose that was exposed and that's what eventually burst. Now it's fully covered.

Pro Stock John
11-23-2011, 10:30 AM
Probably a good idea to pull out trans and converter if you are thinking it's time.

Andy is using all of the boost stages with the AMS1000. It's too bad that schedules didn't work he missed an opportunity to go to a private rental at Cordova held by Eric @ Midwest and I think cars like yours would run great at something like that. When you are at Byron along with 250 other cars, the track can be hit or miss (as it is on any regular TnT day).

I'd start off with boost stages that are predictable and then bring in the power sooner. If you used BS3 you could look at the logs and refine the power curve as well as see stuff like tire shake. Anthony Manna is using a G-Meter which I think Andy will get too, could see where the car was nosing over. I'd say with a fresh set of slicks and some weight pulled out you should go 8.80's if the track prep is good. I've seen MightyMouse race for years, and he has lots of passes on the car.